Pet Removal Right Away

URINE stain ….The only thing that worked for me was Borax found in the laundry section of stores…pore a heaping amount on the stain if it’s still wet if not – wet the stain with water then pore on the Borax let it set there till it’s dry. It pulls out the wet, stain, and odor!!!

It is a urine and other nasty smells and stain remover. Supposedly it can get rid of even a skunk smell, that we know is intense! I am wondering if it really works and/or is it worth the money?
Any experience anyone?

For the removal of pet urine/feces/vomit…on carpeting is primarily where my interest lies. Thanks to all who answer.

http://www.scoe10x.com/scripts/VideoRevi…
I have tried Natures miracle and Urine gone. The results are not 100% Though I had better results with urine gone, then I did with natures miracle. I found if I wasn’t stingy it worked quite well. I’m trying to find something better.

I haven’t used it, but it’s gotten mixed reviews both for the product and customer support. It seems very expensive, and some of the reviews say they do not honor the money back guarantee. If it were me, I go with Natures Miracle instead. If you haven’t tried Oxyclean yet, you might want to give it a try as well. I’ve found it works for many things.

Good luck!

I went out of town for over a week and hired a "friend" to come stay at the house and watch my dogs. He for one reason or another didn’t follow through, rarely ever let my dogs out which in turn lead to them RUINING the carpet in my dining room (that’s the only area they used as their bathroom) Ive used all sorts of pet stain/odor removers and rented a rug doctor (which didn’t help at all) and I was going to call professional carpet cleaners; but I live with a carpet installer and Im wondering if I should just replace that area of the carpet, maybe just try replacing the pad or if there are any cleaners out there that can guarantee pet odor removal. Its horrible and very embarrassing. I literally never want to go home because it smells so bad. I live in Sacramento if anyone knows of a stand-out cleaning service there or any ideas to remove the odor…pleeease let me know. Thank you thank you thank you

I don’t know for sure whether this will work, but it is cheap, and it once worked for me with – believe it or not – skunk odor.

Get a bunch of baking soda – 15 – 20 lbs., and sprinkle it very generously over the carpet. Let it sit there for several hours – I put it on in the morning and let it sit until I came home from work – and then vacuum it up. I will confess that I could still catch a very faint odor afterward, but it was barely noticeable.

If that doesn’t work, and no one else has a better idea, you’ll probably be best to just replace the carpet – especially since you have an installer so conveniently available.

I went out of town for over a week and hired a "friend" to come stay at the house and watch my dogs. He for one reason or another didn’t follow through, rarely ever let my dogs out which in turn lead to them RUINING the carpet in my dining room (that’s the only area they used as their bathroom) Ive used all sorts of pet stain/odor removers and rented a rug doctor (which didn’t help at all) and I was going to call professional carpet cleaners; but I live with a carpet installer and Im wondering if I should just replace that area of the carpet, maybe just try replacing the pad or if there are any cleaners out there that can guarantee pet odor removal. Its horrible and very embarrassing. I literally never want to go home because it smells so bad. I live in Sacramento if anyone knows of a stand-out cleaning service there or any ideas to remove the odor…pleeease let me know. Thank you thank you thank you

I don’t know for sure whether this will work, but it is cheap, and it once worked for me with – believe it or not – skunk odor.

Get a bunch of baking soda – 15 – 20 lbs., and sprinkle it very generously over the carpet. Let it sit there for several hours – I put it on in the morning and let it sit until I came home from work – and then vacuum it up. I will confess that I could still catch a very faint odor afterward, but it was barely noticeable.

If that doesn’t work, and no one else has a better idea, you’ll probably be best to just replace the carpet – especially since you have an installer so conveniently available.

Yes its a myth that dry foods are better for cats teeth. A diet of all wet or a wet/dry combo is better for the overall health of a cat. Not all vets know about nutrition when it comes to pets. Many will tell you dry is best when its really not. Research can be your best friend.

http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=doesdryfoodcleantheteeth

Does Dry Food Clean the Teeth?

By Jean Hofve, DVM

Let’s get this one straight once and for all: dry food does not clean your cat’s teeth! In fact, dry food really has no benefits for the cat. It is merely a convenience for the guardian. If you haven’t already read "Why Cats Need Canned Food", that’s a good place to start in your quest for accurate, up-to-date information on feeding cats.

Most cats don’t consistently chew dry food; they swallow it whole. Obviously, without contacting the teeth, there is zero effect on tartar accumulation. For cats who do chew dry food, whether consistently or occasionally, there is still little or no benefit. The kibbles shatter, so contact between the kibble and the teeth occurs only at the tips of the teeth. This is certainly not enough to make a difference in the formation of tartar and plaque, which most commonly builds up along (and underneath) the gumline at the base of the teeth.

Keeping your cat’s (or dog’s) teeth and gums healthy requires a commitment on your part. Daily toothbrushing and regular veterinary cleanings are still important. The labels on even the special "tartar control" diets like Hill’s t/d and Friskies dental diet recommend these additional steps. (Of course, brushing daily with periodic cleaning by the vet are sufficient to keep the teeth healthy by themselves, without using a special diet at all!) Dental diets are very different from all other dry foods. The kibbles are very large, and have a different texture than regular dry food.

In my experience as a feline veterinarian, I’ve probably examined at least 13,000 cats’ mouths. There was no real pattern to the dental and periodontal disease I saw. If anything, tartar and gum disease seemed to be more attributable to genetics or concurrent disease (such as feline leukemia or feline AIDS) than to any particular diet. I saw beautiful and horrible mouths in cats eating wet food, dry food, raw food, and every possible combination. Many of my patients initially ate mostly or exclusively dry food; yet these cats had some of the most infected, decayed, foul-smelling mouths I saw. If there was any dietary influence at all, I’d say that raw-fed cats had better oral health than cats on any type of commercial food. However, the overall effect of diet on dental health appeared to be minimal at most.

If your vet still believes the myth of dry food and dental health (which is still actively promoted by the pet food companies despite the utter lack of scientific support for the theory), here are a few references that refute the idea:

* Logan, et al., Dental Disease, in: Hand et al., eds., Small Animal Clinical Nutrition, Fourth Edition. Topeka, KS: Mark Morris Institute, 2000, p. 487. "Although consumption of soft foods may promote plaque accumulation, the general belief that dry foods provide significant oral cleansing should be regarded with skepticism. A moist food may perform similarly to a typical dry food in affecting plaque, stain and calculus accumulation…Typical dry dog and cat foods contribute little dental cleansing. As a tooth penetrates a kibble or treat the initial contact causes the food to shatter and crumble with contact only at the coronal tip of the tooth surface…The kibble crumbles…providing little or no mechanical cleansing…." The author also reviewed two studies on cat "dental" treats which showed "no significant difference in plaque or calculus accumulation with the addition of dental treats to either a dry or a moist cat food." Of course, this book was produced by Hill’s, so it heavily promotes t/d. However, although t/d provided a "statistically significant" improvement, when you look at the actual graphs, the difference between Dog Chow and t/d is not impressive.

* "…When comparing dry food only and non-dry food only fed dogs…there is no pattern to the trends (some teeth show an apparent protective effect from feeding dry food only, and others show the opposite — for calculus index, the trend is protective for all five teeth in dogs feed dry food only, whereas for gingival index it is the opposite, and it is mixed for attachment loss). All maxillary teeth are significantly less likely to be mobile in the dry food only group, yet the mandibular first molar tooth showed the opposite effect." Harvey et al., Correlation of diet, other chewing activities and periodontal disease in North American client-owned dogs. J Vet Dent. 1996 Sept;13(3):101-105. Logan (above) assessed this study as follows: "In a large epidemiologic survey, dogs consuming dry food alone did not consistently demonstrate improved periodontal health when compared with dogs eating moist foods."

* There is an excellent review of the literature by A. Watson (Diet and periodontal disease in dogs and cats. Aust Vet J. 1994;71:313-318). This study is fully of interesting historical items. For instance, one study of cat skulls found evidence of severe periodontal disease in 25% of 80 cats; 75 of the skulls dated from 1841 to 1958, and 2 were from Egypt during the time of the Pharoahs!

* According to the above review, many of the early studies showed less tartar formation with hard dry food vs the same food mixed with water, and similar results were reported in a study with canned vs dry cat foods. In 1965 a study compared feeding raw whole bovine trachea, esophagus, and attached muscle and fat, vs the same food minced. Plaque and gingival inflammation were increased with the minced diet. Even more fascinating, they tube-fed the minced food and found that plaque and gingivitis did not decrease, "showing food did not need to be present in the mouth to induce these changes." In fact, gingivitis tended to increase when dogs were tube-fed, "suggesting that even the minimal chewing required with minced food had some cleansing or protective effect." Minced food is similar in texture to canned food.

* A couple of studies showed that *large* dry food biscuits (not kibble) actually removed tartar, which is probably the theory underlying t/d’s oversized chunks. Feeding of half an oxtail accomplished the same thing when fed weekly in another study. (I can just see it now, "Brand X’s Tartar Control Oxtails.") The study also noted that "No harmful effects were observed from feeding oxtails to > 200 dogs for > 6 years."

* Gorrel and Rawlings (The role of tooth-brushing and diet in the maintenance of periodontal health in dogs. J Vet Dent. 1996 Dec;13(4):139-143) state that: "In a previous study, we showed that the daily addition of an appropriately designed chew to a dry food diet is effective in reducing accumulation of dental deposits…the addition of the chew to the dry food diet also reduced the severity of gingivitis that developed, compared with the regimen of dry food diet alone." This points out that dry food does not prevent tartar/gingivitis without additional treatment.

* Interestingly, Gorrel states in another article that "The consensus is that supragingival calculus per se is not directly involved in the etiology or pathogenesis of [periodontal] disease, and is mainly of cosmetic significance if plaque removal is adequate." (Periodontal disease and diet; J Nutr. 1998;128:2712S-2714S.)

* A more recent review (DuPont G. Prevention of periodontal disease. Vet Clin N Amer. 1998 Sept;28(5):1129-1145) says, "In some dogs, dry kibble or fibrous diet helps slow plaque accumulation more than does soft or canned food…Other chewing behaviors may be even more important for reducing plaque than is feeding dry food." Not exactly a ringing endorsement of dry food! He cites 2 studies showing Hill’s t/d to be effective for "decreasing plaque and calculus accumulation."

* A review of feline neck lesions found no significant influence of diet. (Johnson N, Acquired feline oral cavity disease, Part 2: feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions. In Practice. 2000 Apr:188-197).

These studies show that dry food does not clean a cat’s teeth any better than eating pretzels cleans ours! At best, we can say that dry food tends to produce slightly less tartar than canned food. For cats, the benefits of feeding canned food far outweigh any possible dental problems that may result. After all, it is much easier for your vet to clean your cat’s teeth once a year than to treat diabetes, urinary tract problems, and other diseases that are either directly caused or aggravated by feeding dry food.

Regular home and veterinary dental care are real keys to keeping your cat’s teeth and gums healthy for life.
Your right good quality food is best no matter what way you go. Our Siamese gets Eagle Pack canned twice a day in combination with Timber Wolf Organics Serengeti. Both of which are grain free.

I’m quite a fan of Dr. Hovfe as her articles are very clear, succinct, and I think correct when it comes to feeding cats. I also feel that the canned must be of high quality, not Fancy Feast, Science Diet etc. which use by-product meat.

The teeth issue is also one I feel to be as much genetics as anything else (certainly in my case as a human) and my vets all agree on that. I have a 13 yr old kibble addict and every year the vet looks at her teeth and says, "Well, they don’t need cleaning this year – maybe next year." Other cats I have need cleanings every year or every other year. They do eat a raw meat diet and canned food.

If we all ate chips or cereal all day without any milk and only a small amount of water and did not brush our teeth we would have plaque buildup too.

If I ever needed to remove odors i would use a mixture of dish washing liquid, water, and hydrogen peroxide. But now i need to get odors out of not only hardwood, but a rug and furniture and I’m not sure if the hydrogen peroxide (even though its diluted) will stain the furniture or rug

so question one, will the peroxide stain the furniture or rug, and do you know any good homemade odor removers or odor removal tricks

also adding a few of the odors are from pets and the odor has been there a while

I have used peroxide to remove blood on clothing and it has never bleached the fabrics. Vinegar is a good odor neutralizer mixed with water. There was a post earlier that warns against the use of vinegar on woods, marble etc. Check it out.

I’m a professional photographer and am always trying to get a leg up on other photography businesses. I mostly specialize in child portraits, but do other work such as weddings, family portraits, advertising photography, and pet portraits as well.

I’ve been thinking about offering my stain removal airbrushing free of charge for all children’s portrait work. For example, if a kid spills mustard on themselves ten minutes before their session, Mom doesn’t have to panic because I can run it through the computer and fix the problem on the final proof- all for free. Other photographers charge a fee (usually about 20 dollars a picture) to do this.

Would this be a selling point for you?

No. If I was using you as a photographer and you had that bonus in, that’s great, but if I had your advertisement next to another, this wouldn’t make me pick you over the other person. Maybe I’d just the odd ball here, but my kids are 9.5, 7.5, 3.5 and 2ms and never have any of them gotten something on their clothes right before taking pictures.
What would be a selling point for me would be if you would be willing to snap an extra 5-7 photos. I know where I go to get my kids’ pictures taken, they’ll only snap a certain amount of photos. Kids move, don’t smile, blink etc, so sometimes I end up with a handful of pictures that are just a waste and I can have them take anymore without paying another 20-30 dollars.
Best Wishes =]

I’m a professional photographer and am always trying to get a leg up on other photography businesses. I mostly specialize in child portraits, but do other work such as weddings, family portraits, advertising photography, and pet portraits as well.

I’ve been thinking about offering my stain removal airbrushing free of charge for all children’s portrait work. For example, if a kid spills mustard on themselves ten minutes before their session, Mom doesn’t have to panic because I can run it through the computer and fix the problem on the final proof- all for free. Other photographers charge a fee (usually about 20 dollars a picture) to do this.

Would this be a selling point for you?

No. If I was using you as a photographer and you had that bonus in, that’s great, but if I had your advertisement next to another, this wouldn’t make me pick you over the other person. Maybe I’d just the odd ball here, but my kids are 9.5, 7.5, 3.5 and 2ms and never have any of them gotten something on their clothes right before taking pictures.
What would be a selling point for me would be if you would be willing to snap an extra 5-7 photos. I know where I go to get my kids’ pictures taken, they’ll only snap a certain amount of photos. Kids move, don’t smile, blink etc, so sometimes I end up with a handful of pictures that are just a waste and I can have them take anymore without paying another 20-30 dollars.
Best Wishes =]

Just recently my little kitty (male 2 years old first time accident, yes I sill call him "my little kitty") has made my futon his new box and very recent such as this morning at about 6 A.M. and I was wondering if the ‘GET SERiOUS! Pet Stain, Odor and Pheromone Extractor’ was worth getting or if there’s a much better product? It was quite a bit of urine and I blotted just like you would do to help rid most of the wetness and smell, I’ve even used Febreze and a generic Disinfectant Spray by Quality Care, and the smell actually has gone (or so I think, you never truly know, now do you?) and the spots where he made his accident just smells like… hay, or grain feed for horses. My mother seems to think that he is the "dominant male" of the household and that the smell of my boyfriend is peeving him and he had to "reclaim his territory" as she put it… Apparently I am that territory.

P.S. It even got all over my sheets, all of them and both of my pillows any tips for removing the smell there too?
He is neutered and we live in California. So the summers occasionally get humid, and I want to make sure that doesn’t make the smell return.
He is neutered and we live in California (the Valley to be more exact). So the summers occasionally get humid, and I want to make sure that doesn’t make the smell return. I also need tips to remove the smell from my sheets and pillow, because both me and my boyfriend will not be happy about sleeping on them or under the soiled sheets.

I’ve taken in a couple male strays that weren’t fixed when I brought them in (they certainly are now!) but they sprayed whenever I wasn’t looking.

I used Natures Miracle for Cats which is supposed to be much better taking out cat urine smells. Since I got them neutered they’ve stopped marking and pee only in the box.

You can also put some Catattract in their litter. It attracts them to the box rather than where it’s inappropriate.

If he’s not neutered yet, get that done too. You’d be surprised just how fast those "dominant" hormones go away!

slowly ruining every carpet in the house. We’ve tried the obvious with having her urine tested, crate training, etc. There are no new events or changes in her life. A friend just told me tonight that there is a drug that can help them from haviing accidents.

My question, then, is 3-fold:

1) How would the drug be able to distinquish her urine as an accident?

2) Why hasn’t my vet heard about the drug if indeed it does exist,

3) iI not, does anyone know of an effective pet stain/odor removal product that really works?

Thanks!

Some smaller dogs often have trouble holding their urine but in many cases, because they’ve basically learned to potty in the house, the dog may not want to change it’s ways. Take the dog out frequently and reward it for using the bathroom outside; it’s tough to wait around for the dog to go sometimes because we’ve all got other things going on but stick with it and don’t go back in until the dog has urinated outside. Praise and reward immediately after the dog goes outside. You may have to reach back into puppyhood and go as far as keeping your girl on a leash with you at all times indoors so she learns she can’t run off and use the "indoor facilities".

As for cleaning, you need something with enzymes to break down the urine and get rid of the smell. There are plenty of these products available and you just need to make sure it’s safe for the surface you’re cleaning and, obviously, for your pet. Your vet may be able to recommend something.

There is a woman named Patricia McConnell who is a Ph.D. animal behaviorist who has a ton of information on her website and she has much of it in booklet form that is really affordable. She’s definitely a go to reference for me.

Finally, have your dog checked by your vet because sometimes medical conditions like urinary tract infections can cause animals to potty where they shouldn’t. My oldest dog, Hunter, was using the carpet in front of the door at night which was very unlike him. I had a hunch it was diabetes and, unfortunately, I was right. A condition causing your dog to urinate inside can be very serious and life threatening and may need to be addressed quickly.

Good luck and hang in there-she’s worth it!!!